To Kolima Sun, Jun 18, 2023, 9:21 AM The air held in the boat overnight. About to carry the gear down to the shore and head for Kartiska lean-to on Kolima.
Kartiska Lean-to Sun, Jun 18, 2023, 11:24 PM Luxury spot with a view. Mirror-calm. Barely any mosquitoes. There were a couple of open crossings on Kolima that wouldn't have been fun in wind. Luckily the conditions were perfect. Nobody anywhere. Maybe four boats spotted in the distance.
Camp Tuuliajo (Driftcamp) Mon, Jun 19, 2023, 5:15 PM In the morning I noticed a swallow's nest on the lean-to roof beam. Two fluffy balls in there. I moved the gear out quickly so as not to disturb them too much. The parent bird was brave enough to come and feed them thinking I was still asleep. Paddled a few kilometres of mirror-calm lake, then clouds started building and thunder rolled a few times, so I decided to take a nap and camped next to Sorkanvuori hill. While setting up camp the boat drifted off with the wind. Had to swim to retrieve it from further down the cove. 17:00.
A few days have passed. I've crossed Kolima. The first morning went on packing and moving the boat 100 metres to the other side of the ridge, where there was a good starting point. I still made good progress though — two lakes across to Kartiska lean-to. The open water crossings would have been brutal in bad weather, but the day was mirror-calm. The lean-to was in a stunning spot on a flat rock face toward the evening sun.
In the morning there were strange sounds. A strong flutter, then pattering footsteps, then another flutter. I noticed a swallow's nest on the beam at the top of the lean-to roof. The swallow thought I was still asleep and came in to feed two tiny swallow chicks. I moved quickly to the shore rocks so as not to disturb feeding too much. I fixed up some gear on the rocks and didn't set off until midday.
In the afternoon the weather started changing, so I found somewhere to hang the hammock before the storm. I got the shelter assembled in good time, but in the rush I lost the boat. I swam to retrieve it from further down a cove. I napped and watched the wind beating the tarp. There was a bit of thunder but nothing close. Once the weather cleared I decided to push on to find a better camping spot, even though it was already evening.
Just at sunset I saw a raptor circling an island and calling. I thought it was hunting fish, but as I got closer I saw a large stick nest at the top of a broken tree, and a second bird arrived. Both patrolled the nest and called. I took a couple of photos and left.
I hung the sleeping mat in the trees on the opposite shore. Mosquitoes were utterly appalling again. They don't really prevent sleeping, but everything else is hard.
In the morning the mosquitoes hadn't thinned out, and now horseflies and midges had joined in, so I evacuated before breakfast. My goal was to reach Rakaja lean-to, cook properly, and continue down toward Kärnänkoski.
On the way to the lean-to a couple paddled past me. They were the first people I'd seen within shouting distance since leaving Niemenharju. They didn't shout anything.
At the lean-to there was another couple — summer cottage people who had come to cook. They said they had chatted with the rowing couple. They also gave useful information: the end section of Kärnänkoski is really bad. Some kind of straight steep chute where a power plant or similar used to be. I'll need to figure out how to get through.
I made a real luxury meal given that almost everything is running out: rice and tomato sauce with plenty of carrot and especially celery. I need to start thinking about what to buy in Viitasaari when I get there tomorrow or the day after.
To Rakaja Lean-to Tue, Jun 20, 2023, 1:17 PM After the mini-storm yesterday I continued to Lopakko. From there a quick evacuation today due to mosquitoes. Plan is to cook at the lean-to. On the island opposite Lopakko there was an impressive nest at the top of a broken pine. Two brown raptors circling it and calling. Ospreys, maybe?
