Kärnä Behind Me Wed, Jun 21, 2023, 4:52 PM Rested out the afternoon at the lean-to yesterday. Today I portaged around Kärnänkoski, then ran Kellankoski. Still Kymönkoski ahead. Could I make it to Viitasaari today?
A Couple of Rapids Later Wed, Jun 21, 2023, 7:53 PM Turned out there were two or three more rapids in there. Long stretch of easy cruising, but eventually yes, trousers got wet a couple of times. Hull held up well, though it probably only hit a rock once. Coffee break now at Kymönsaari, then one more lake crossing before Viitasaari.
Through the Rapids
I passed Kärnä and three or four rapids the next day. I portaged around Kärnä following the advice from the couple at the lean-to — they were right: at the end of Kärnä, where the old power plant used to be, there was an impossible rapid, at least with my gear. Otherwise I ran all the rapids. A couple of times I took water in the lap and once the hull hit rocks. I managed to soak all my clothes that day. I still made it to Viitasaari, had a couple of rye bread meals at the ABC petrol station, and pushed on to the southern lean-to on Vanha Kirkkosaari. That was paddling nearly around the clock with few breaks — about 25 km.
From Kirkkosaari I continued to Hännilänsalmi campsite. There I burned through money quite thoroughly: sauna booking, laundry room, a couple of nights' tent pitch, very expensive beer. I tried to buy beer somewhere else but couldn't manage it — the campsite was a bit too far from town to have gone before the sauna that evening.
Today I went into town. Not much seems to be happening here. The walk in was along the edge of the main road in a downpour, so I'm not in a hurry to go back either. The rain seems to be stopping now. The ABC is clearly the heart of town — accordion music and plenty of people, probably passing through. I managed to buy everything I think I'll need for the next 70 km to Äänekoski. No other towns in between, so it was important to get to the shops today before they close for Midsummer.
Hännilänsalmi Campsite Thu, Jun 22, 2023, 6:37 PM Yesterday I made it to the ABC marina before closing time and pulled two rye burger meals. Best. Continued to the southern lean-to on Kirkkosaari. Morning brought the now-routine evacuation, then across to the mosquito-free rocks on the opposite shore to dry clothes after yesterday's rapids. The couple I'd met at Rakaja lean-to had recommended Hännilänsalmi camping as a 'traditional campsite'. Arrived in the afternoon, plan is to skip paddling tomorrow. Looking forward to sauna and a couple of beers. Fun fact: the clear-cut next to the campsite has old trenches running through it.
Midsummer Eve
On Midsummer I made friends with a Bangladeshi fishing group and received a goat meal in exchange for salt — they had run out of salt and the shops were closed. I gave them the tip from the lean-to couple about where to find pike-perch. They had at least caught a big pike — probably half a metre. I also hung around for a bit at a café that had turned into a karaoke bar, but didn't dare join in as the crowd was quite rough. Present were, among others, Sormikoukku-Harri and Kyrpä-Laitinen. Both of them offered me a cigarette even though I was sitting outside the bar to avoid excessive socialising.
The next day I pushed on all the way to Viukarinsaari, even though I'd thought it would take a day and a half. Perhaps the rest day had done its job. The lean-to at Viukarinsaari had run out of firewood, but the sauna had some. The sauna was the reason I wanted to get there. When I arrived there were two jetties with boats side by side. I didn't stay there for the night but found a lean-to a bit further off. The bigger lean-to was quite lair-like with its foam mattresses.
At the Viukarinsaari lean-to there was a thrush's nest — four hungry mouths gaping upward even when the mother wasn't nearby. Later that day I spotted another osprey nest.
On Keitele Sat, Jun 24, 2023, 6:19 PM Set off around 13:00 continuing along the western shore of Keitele. Coming up on Jalama. Weather dramatically changeable. Calm. Rain, sun, all kinds of cloud.
Iso Mäntysaari Sun, Jun 25, 2023, 3:14 PM Yesterday I paddled until ten with few breaks, wanting to reach the sauna at Viukarinsaari. Today I continued to Iso Mäntysaari to cook. Lean-to maintenance on Keitele is poor — firewood all gone, and grimy foam mattresses left lying around.
