Goodbye, ocean
A review and some speculation
Today I started later. It's about twelve. I think it is the last day I will see the ocean. I don't know how the journey will change from that point forward. I saw Stefan having a break. He's probably walked several hours by now. The service at the camping was a bit uneven. They had the best shower of the trip, which was very nice after five days of not having a warm shower. The food was disappointing. I had a 4 cheese pizza that was more like a one cheese pizza out of a freezer. I had not realised they didn't have a kitchen in the restaurant. Also, the pizza was cold in the middle. Didn't eat it. But then I went to the supermarket, and it was great. It started raining so I hung the clothes inside the tent, drank half a bottle of wine, ate olives and fuet, and read the Brothers Karamazov.
Today I am thinking of going to Isla, which is the last beach town before the inland. I got a nice map from the tourist office. I think they don't give out these so much since everyone has a phone, so the few they give out can be real fine. I was pondering about my bad luck with the accomodation. Even yesterday, after asking from the tourist office about the location of the camping, I still managed to walk past the camping first. And they even had a welcome sign at the gate, although somewhat covered by the bush. One reason for passing it was that it called itself a beach camping and there was no beach. It's not a surprise I don't always find these. Also, it can be hard to make it to the tourist office in time. They have a long siesta in the middle of the day, and here the evening opening hours are worse compared to the previous states.
The map doesn't have camping areas on it. Have to get more info. Maybe it becomes easier to find the albergues since there will be less roads inland, less options. The albergues don't put as many signs on the roads here. It used to be that you can find these little signs next to the road pointing to the albergue, but now it's been rarer. There are signs that say "call this number and reserve an albergue in 40 km". So they are not trying to lead you anywhere today, but the next day.
Towards the mountains
I left Isla and continue towards Colunga and then Villaviciosa. It's a day's march. Yesterday I had a farewell ritual with the sea. I sat on a hilltop and drank the rest of the wine while watching beginner surfers trying to catch waves. Found an albergue in Isla. The guests included Stefan, Heather, Matthew, and a 77-year-old man whose name I didn't catch. He had walked a Camino every year since he turned 70. I've had my coffee and now walking a mudpath inland. The route will not turn to mountains before Oviedo and Grado. At some point it will climb to 1200 meters.
Fresh walkers
That was Villaviciosa. I had a cafe con leche, ate a bun and bought some to go. I'm continuing. I don't know where I'll sleep, but who cares when you have good snacks with you. There were some pilgrims down the road yelling where am I going to sleep. They had problems with accomodation. It seems there are more of them here. It must be a popular starting point for the Primitivo. I think today will be easy enough walking since there's a river for half of the journey. There will be some mountain in the end, but I think I won't make it that far before nightfall.
Just passed a sign of Oviedo and Gijón routes separating. At least now we are officially on Camino Primitivo. The landscape has changed back to hobbit style. Nice hills.
It took some climbing to get to the next valley, to get to the next town, Vega. I could see some blue peaks already. Primitivo deserves it's name. It is less maintained. The grass is mowed less. Not that the path before was better, but it is more rural now. I would like to get a pint at Vega. There hasn't been any pit stops after Villaviciosa.
Ghost hostel
Found an albergue in Vega, but the door was locked. It said to get the key from the bar next door, but the bar was closed as well. Luckily Sabina and Thomas were on the roof terrace of the albergue and they let me in. They said no one had received them either. Even in the morning there was no one around... It's a chilly, cloudless morning. Only one cloud appeared over a mountain forest. There are less shops and bars. I don't even know where I am getting my first cafe con leche. I should get pretty close to Oviedo today. Depends on the accomodation options. I suppose the city has an albergue, but it could be nicer to stop before the city today and walk around the town tomorrow morning. I think I walked 35 km yesterday. Around the clock, from nine to nine.
